| Settlers in the
Ozarks The
story of Ozark Mountain Country is also a story of a people and their
culture and values. To a great extent, the area was once defined by it's
isolation. It comes as no surprise then that the folklore and traditional
music of the region has it's origins deep in antiquity.
The
Ozark hills were settled by yeoman farmers who moved into the area from the
mountains of the Carolinas, Tennessee, and Kentucky - individuals who were
themselves descendants of farmers from Scotland, England, and Ireland. These
hill people brought with them stories and tales from their ancient
homelands.
To
the early settlers of the Ozark Mountains, life was hard. As the growing
population depleted the once abundant game, residents were forced to exact a
subsistence living from their small farms. When row crops like corn were
planted on the steep hillsides, the region's soils, never rich or deep
except on the regularly inundated flood plains, were scoured by gully
washing rains. By the last decades of the nineteenth century, the economic
history of the region became a story of various attempts of the local
population to supplement their meager incomes.
Various industries were tried with little or no success; two examples are
lead mining and the collection of mussel shells from the area rivers for the
button industry. The first sustained boom to the area's economy resulted
from the harvesting of local timber when the nation's expanding rail system
created demand for a seemingly endless supply of cross ties. After the
forests were cleared of their virgin timber, the revenue vacuum was filled
by the development of the tomato and strawberry industries. The production
of moonshine was sometimes used by the remote hill people for supplementary
income.
The Entertainment Industry
As
Branson and the lakes area gains national attention for drawing to its
stages large numbers of the nation's most popular and enduring country and
western stars, it is easy to forget that the area did not become a magnet
for country music celebrities overnight. The entertainment industry is here
because of a long and involved history. Fishing, originally in the White
River and James Rivers and then in the lakes, caving in Marble Cave, the
revival of the area's craft industry, and visitors' interested in the
setting of a best selling novel all contributed to a gradual increase in the
area's tourism. Here you can explore the histories of Silver Dollar City,
the Shepherd of the Hills, and the Country Music Boulevard - the three most
visited attractions in the Ozarks.
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The City of Branson
The
men who founded the town of Branson in 1903 were planning an industrial
center in the Ozarks that would generate trainload after trainload of logs,
lumber, and manufactured products for the outside world, thereby generating
steady income for area residents. Today, as country music theaters, motels,
and restaurants mushroom across the surrounding hills, an industrial boom
has indeed come to Branson, but it is based on drawing tourists to the
town's entertainment industry, not exporting the area's resources.
When
incorporated, on April 1, 1912, Branson had 1,200 residents. Shortly there
after, the idea of Branson as a resort town began to take root, spawning a
commercial ice plant, a soft drink bottling plant, a candy factory, and an
ice cream factory near the waterfront. The town's three hotels - the
Commercial, Branson, and Malone (the latter renamed the White River Hotel in
1937) - were catering to vacationers, and neighboring factories and
businesses were encouraged to stack their logs, lumber, and bricks so that
they looked more tidy.
Hobart
McQuarter, who had a boat factory and a bulk gasoline business on Branson's
waterfront in conjunction with his passenger service up and down the lake,
built Branson's first vacation cabins - the Sammy Lane Resort - just
upstream from the Main Street bridge. The cabins stood on stilts and were
anchored with cables to keep floods from washing them away.
The women of Branson, many of whom were employed or helped operate family
businesses, organized a Civic League in 1914 and begun what would be a
decades long effort to beautify the streets, establish parks, and make life
better in their community. They paid off the debt on the old community
building and in 1936 supplied the land where a new community building was
built. They planned community celebrations and activities and provided the
town a well-equipped municipal bathing beach and picnic ground on lake
Taneycomo.
By
the 1930's Lake Taneycomo had become an inexpensive vacation spot easily
accessible to distant or nearby cities by car and train. Visitors drawn by
street fairs, parades community picnics, and boat races, as well as by the
scenic lake and hills, helped the town's businesses survive through the
Depression and bank failures.
After
World War II, many artists, craftsmen, and retirees came to the area, along
with returning servicemen and war industry workers. One of those returning
workers was artist Steve Miller. In the late summer of 1949, he and
businessman Joe Todd dreamed up the idea of putting a huge lighted Adoration
Scene on the Mount Branson bluff, across Lake Taneycomo from downtown
Branson. With help from local carpenters, the creche scene's figures, up to
28 feet tall, were in place for lighting on the first Sunday of that
December, in front of thousands of awe-struck visitors.
In
1953, with more people coming for the lighting each year, the sponsoring
Chamber of Commerce took a leaf from Branson's long history of Santa Claus
parades, pet parades, and costume competitions, and added an Adoration
Parade to the lighting ceremonies. The parade and ceremony, kept free of
commercialism, today draws crowds as large as 30,000 people.
Preparations for the construction of Table Rock Dam began the year after the
first Adoration Parade, and continued through most
of the 1950's. When the dam was completed
in 1959 and water rose to its expected average level, Branson's citizens
were relieved that floods no longer threatened their waterfront. Tourists
came in growing numbers to enjoy the big new lake, the Herschends' 1890's
Silver Dollar City theme park, and the Trimbles' new outdoor theater at the
Shepherd of the Hills Farm. Resorts near Branson and on downstream were
encouraging their guests to fish and visit the area's new attractions. Lake
Taneycomo was too cold for swimming now that it was fed by the deep cold
waters of Table Rock Lake. Branson's merchants welcomed the increasing
number of tourists.
In
1960, just as tourism began to increase rapidly in the area, the Missouri
Pacific canceled all passenger service on its White River Line. With so many
visitors arriving by automobile, traffic on
winding U.S. 65 to Springfield often slowed
to a crawl. To shorten and straighten the 75 mile route down to 40 miles,
dynamite crews and earth moving equipment blasted a road through the
limestone hills between Springfield and Branson.
A four-lane bypass was completed in the mid 1970's. The bypass rerouted U.S.
65 away from Branson's congested downtown business district and provided
interchanges at Highway 76 and at Highway 248, and a new bridge across lake
Taneycomo. At that time, businesses were just beginning to develop along 76
west of Branson with only a few scattered shops and five music shows. A
decade later, eleven more music shows and many restaurants, motels and
tourist attractions had extended the built up area three miles further west.
The number of music shows, which started with the Baldknobbers in 1957 and
increased to sixteen in the 1980's, now exceeds thirty; and with the
addition of the Ozark Mountain Christmas Celebration, the tourist season has
increased to nine months.
In
the first half of this century, Branson's citizens worked very hard to turn
their town into a prosperous industrial town and still attract sightseers
and vacationers. Today those aims are one, and Branson residents and their
mayor, city council, the Chamber of Commerce, and the Downtown Branson
Betterment Association face many new challenges as they go about the
business of welcoming and entertaining more than a hundred thousand visitors
each day in their small town in the Ozarks.
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History of Silver Dollar
City
Silver
Dollar City has developed into one of the most successful theme parks in the
United States. Situated at the site of one of the Ozarks oldest and most
enduring attractions, Marvel Cave, Silver Dollar City literally sprang from
the ground. The cave, which has been designated a National Landmark by the
U.S. Department of the Interior, is important not only because of its
subterranean features, but also because the origins of Silver Dollar City
are tied to its development.
The
first oral record of Marvel Cave comes from the Osage Indians. The first
written record was noted during an 1869 expedition. Henry T. Blow of St.
Louis, a lead mining magnate, led a party of six miners into the cave. They
found no lead before returning to St. Louis, but convinced that the flat
wall of one room was composed of marble, they originally named the cave
Marble Cave.
The cave remained undisturbed until 1882 when another group of
entrepreneurs, led by Mr. T. Hodges Jones and Truman S. Powell of Barton
County, entered the cave in hopes of finding lead. Jones and Powell found
huge amounts of bat manure, or guano as it was called, and the flat wall,
which they, too, believed to be marble. Two years later Jones bought the
property and, with several of his friends, formed the Marble Cave Mining and
Manufacturing Company to mine the cave. The company planned a town, Marble
City, on the rough hilltop near the cave and in 1884 recorded a plat map at
the courthouse in Galena. Although a few lots in the new town were sold,
little development seems to have taken place.
By
1889 much of the Guano had been mined from the cave, the marble wall proved
to be lime stone, and no lead ore was found. The mining company, which had
developed so quickly, ceased operation.
The history of the cave took another turn in 1889 when William Henry Lynch,
a Canadian miner and dairyman, purchased the cave and a square mile around
it for $10,000. Lynch, with the aid of his family, proposed to open the cave
to sightseers. The Lynches began operation of the sightseeing venture in
1894 with a grand celebration and a few visitors. The venture was not
immediately profitable and was closed until Lynch could raise additional
capital to reopen the cave sometime after 1900. The cave has remained open
since then, making it one of the oldest continuously running tourist
attractions in the Ozarks.
When
William Lynch died in 1927, ownership of the cave passed to his daughters.
Shortly there after, the name of the cave was changed to Marvel Cave. The
Lynche family operated the cave for nearly fifty years until a Chicago
vacuum cleaner salesman, Hugo Herschend, purchased a 99 year lease on the
cave.
After
Hugo Herschend's death, five years after he began managing the cave, his
wife, Mary Herschend, took over the day to day operations of the venture.
With the aid of her two sons, Jack and Peter Herschend, Mary Herschend was
able to implement vast improvements to the cave, including a train which
pulled visitors 218 feet, from the depths of the cave up to the surface.
Once the train was in operation the Herschends felt the development of the
cave was complete and immediately began to search for ways to expand their
growing attraction. Anticipating additional tourists to the Ozarks, they
wanted to create an attraction which would attract even more tourists to the
cave.
The
Herschends decided to build an Ozark frontier town on the acreage
surrounding the sight of the cave. The new attraction was named Silver
Dollar City. Silver Dollar City originally was the sight of five shops, a
church, a log cabin, and a street production reproducing the feud between
the Hatfields and McCoys several times daily. With the growing numbers of
tourists visiting the attraction each year, the Herschends were able to add
many new shops, as well as, rides and variety shows. Today Silver Dollar
City plays hosts to thousands of visitors each day during the tourist
season.
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Shepherd of the Hills
Farm
Signs
all over Southwest Missouri proclaim it; businesses, motels, tourist
attractions, and billboards affirm it: the region is Shepherd of the Hills
Country. From every direction roads lead vacationers to the Shepherd of the
Hills Homestead perched high on a ridge just west of Dewey Bald. From early
spring until the end of October, the Homestead introduces visitors to the
old J.K. Ross cabin and farm and, via an outdoor drama, to the people and
events of Harold Bell Wrights immortalized in his 1907 novel, The Shepherd
of the Hills.
During
the day, guests tour the very log house where Wright first experienced Ozark
Hospitality. Old-fashioned jitneys pulled by giant Clydesdale horses offer
rides around the upper part of the Homestead. Motorized trams ply the steep
wooded hillsides, dropping folks off to watch Ozarks artisans at work and to
explore the rustic village which, after dark, becomes a giant stage where
Wrights book is brought back to life.
Visitors
stroll about the Homestead, walk or ride to Inspiration Point, and ascend
the 230 foot enclosed tower to enjoy views of the hills and valleys for
miles in every direction. Near the base of the tower are stone sculptures of
characters from The Shepherd of the Hills and the reconstructed ninety year
old church similar to those in which Wright preached during the years he
lived in the Ozarks.
On
Saturday night, August 6, 1959, The Shepherd of the Hills play was first
presented in the Old Mill Theater at the Shepherd of the Hills farm. The
actors who performed that night and through the early years of the play were
drawn from nearby communities. In the years since, many of them and their
children and grandchildren have continued to be involved with the play, and
have become leaders in the development of many of Branson's current
businesses and musical and recreational attractions.
In
1985, Gary Snadon announced that he had bought the Shepherd of the Hills
farm. Snadon, a local resident, performed one of the lead roles in the
Shepherd of the Hills drama for several years in the 1960's. He chose as his
business manager Jerry Coffelt, who had been involved with the farm and play
for many years.
Soon
after Snadon took over the farm, the name of the attraction was changed to
the Shepherd of the Hills Homestead and Outdoor Theater. His stated
objectives were to keep the play and the farm faithful to The Shepherd of
the Hills book, and to entertain the customers. His ownership has brought a
full schedule of daytime entertainment and activities to the Homestead.
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